After more than 40 years I still love to surf. Amazing! Besides surfing locally I now travel to surf every year. We have been to North Carolina, Florida, California, Hawaii, Caribbean, Bahamas’, Panama and my favorite place of all to surf is Costa Rica. We travel there at least once or twice a year for the past 10 years. The place is paradise to me and to all my traveling surfer buddies. (Surfing Costa Rica next Blog)
How to surf? You have to be able to swim well, not worry what’s in the water, get some wax and buy a nice used long board or funshape. If you can do that, you’re on your way to your Life Sport.
1st: Learning to paddle and how to stand. 2nd: Sitting or lying on the board waiting for your wave. 3rd: Paddling for the wave. 4th: Riding the wave. That’s it. Now paddle back out and do it again.
Learn to paddle on the beach. Lay the board skeg down in the sand. If you can, bury your skegs so you don’t break them off. Lay down on your belly facing the nose of the board. Chin up. Start the pretend paddling. Paddle hard for the wave. Now stand up quickly. This is a very tricky part because everyone has a side they like to stand. One way is called a Regular Footer and the other is called a Goofy Footer. Regular Footers stand with their left foot forward, toes pointing to the ride rail side. Goofy Footers are the opposite of course. I’m a Regular footer. (All can be explained out later) Bend knee’s, arms out for balance, and your surfing. Except you’re in the sand on the beach. Practice…Practice….then get in the water.
You have to learn to sit on the board. Sounds easy, and it is, but you will see it takes practice. And you have to get in the water, outside the break, to learn. Get your butt down in the water, hold on to the rails and balance. Easy…Right! Practice and be patient. Enjoy the moment because the next step is the hard part.
Paddling for your 1st wave is hard. 1st you have to paddle hard to the inside while looking over your shoulder at the approaching wave. Once you feel the lift of the wave pushing you forward it’s time to stand up. This is the hardest part of surfing. Once you get to your feet, try to stay up on top of the board like you did on the beach. Don’t worry, very few people stay up long the 1st time they try.
Riding a wave. All I can say is practice…practice…don’t give up. In fact, you will not want to stop. You know you can do it…and you will! It will change your life forever! I hope it does…It did me.
I know it would be hard to want to surf in the winter but that is my favorite times to surf. Bigger, better swells and fewer crowds. For this time of year a full wetsuit with booties, hood and gloves are all necessary if you’re going to last in the water. If not, wait till summer when it’s easy to learn and you will enjoy it more.
If you would like a private or group lesson I have one of the best hourly rates around. I have taught many people in my day, so let me know. Hope you are ready for the best time of your life! Pura Vida!
